Where Buffalo roam
Elevated drinking: The VIP tasting room at Buffalo Trace London
Kentucky Kings of Bourbon, Buffalo Trace, is on the move and on a mission: to convert Londoners to the delights of its world famous whiskeys. Gordon Thomson was invited along to their new British outpost to get a sneak peek of what lies in store
Next door to Gap and directly opposite a small Levis concession in the West End of London, another classic American brand has just moved into the neighbourhood. Nestled demurely between a funky opticians and the women’s clothing store Arket, Buffalo Trace’s British HQ is bringing a dash of southern spirit to the capital’s streets.
It was here, the night before its grand opening last month, that the Barley team enjoyed a convivial evening of Kentucky-style southern hospitality and an array of satisyfing whiskey.
Billed as Buffalo Trace Distillery London, there is in fact no whiskey produced here (that would be sacrilege to Kentucky Bourbon fans, and very much against the rules governing the spirit anyway). Instead, you’ll find a quietly ornate and generously stocked store, decked out in the brand’s livery of muted green and pale oak, with two bars enticingly tucked away beyond that, where customers can book in for a series of tastings. More on those in a bit.
It’s a bold move. This is the Sazerac-owned 200-year-old Kentucky brand’s first flagship foray into retail outside the States and will have involved a seriously hefty outlay. Real estate in this part of the West End doesn’t come cheap. Still, Sazerac has deep pockets, truck loads of ambition and the team are confident they’ve hit on a winning formula.
“Opening Buffalo Trace London is a momentous occasion for our distiller’, says CEO and president Jake Wenz, explaining his vision of providing a different kind of whiskey education. “We’re offering a space for spirits novices and lovers to learn more about a whiskey type they are perhaps less familiar with – Bourbon. Our aim is to inspire visitors to broaden their palates, and perhaps their cocktails, and we’re hopeful after learning about Bourbon and tasting it, they will add it to their drink list.”
“The first distillation at Buffalo Trace took place in 1775, the same year as the American War of Independence started and before Kentucky existed as a state”
Indeed, the focus is squarely on getting liquid on the lips of Londoners, and no doubt into the mouths of a good number of tourists to boot (the Long Acre location, slap bang in the heart of Covent Garden’s main shopping street, affords Premier League levels of footfall). You won’t find lengthy tours. There is no epic ‘Story of Buffalo Trace’ video to sit through. Walls remain refreshingly free of too much legacy and history puff. It’s a smart play that cuts straight to the drinking experience.
Frankly though, you wouldn’t blame them for going OTT on all the heritage stuff, given the story they have to tell. Buffalo Trace refers to the ancient buffalo trackway that crosses the Kentucky River in Franklin County; it claims the title of ‘America’s oldest continuously operating distillery’, with the first distillation taking place on the Frankfort site in 1775. That’s the same year as the American War of Independence started! Kentucky didn’t even exist as a state then. Their pedigree is powerful. They have the whiskey chops to back it up.
A Trace of things to come? The new storefront on Long Acre, London
Today, Bourbon, rye, and vodka are all made on-site at their Kentucky base, including some of the most desired whiskeys in the world, from the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection to the revered Pappy Van Winkle. There is no Pappy to make you happy in London (it’s far too precious and rare), but pretty much everything else on the eye-catching inventory is here to be had. Or will be. The shelves are gleaming with rows of brand leader Buffalo Trace Bourbon (a snip at twenty odd quid a bottle), the spicy New Orleans original Sazerac Straight Rye and Eagle Rare 10 Year Old, a sweet and oaky concoction that’s a joy to drink on its own. There’s also an enormous selection of merchandise, from the usual hoodies and T-shirts, to Big Bourbon beard oil and BBQ marinades.
“Their aim is to reboot Buffalo Trace’s higher end bottlings as a serious drink for British whisky afficianados.”
Bourbon is booming in the States and, if my straw poll of friends is anything to go by, growing in popularity this side of the Atlantic too, especially with the cocktail-loving crowd. Nothing wrong with a well-mixed Paper Plane or Highball — Buffalo Trace will deliver on that every time (the charming shop staff serve up two excellent versions on the night). But there is serious neat sipping to be had throughout their range too, as we discovered on our tasting odyssey, hosted by global brand director Andrew Duncan and store manager, Kiel Roche, an affable Brit who will be running day-to-day operations in London. Their aim, I think, is to reboot Buffalo Trace’s higher end bottlings as a serious drink for British whisky aficionados. And, at the same time, with its easy-drinking (and easy on the wallet) core product range, show off its credentials as a great accessible alternative to blended Scotch whisky.
There’s a dizzying array of merchandise on offer at the store
With the steely eyes of Buffalo Trace distilling luminaries E.H. Taylor, Jr., George T. Stagg, Orville Schupp, and Elmer T. Lee peering down on us from framed sepia prints hung on the exposed brick wall, we slide onto velvet green stools positioned in front of a large oak tasting table in the dimly-lit VIP tasting room. This is where the second more premium expression lineup will be tasted by visitors. An intimate but understated speakeasy vibe pervades. It’s quite simply a great place to drink bourbon and learn more about it.
“There’s an intimate but not overstated speakeasy vibe in the VIP room. It’s quite simply a great place to drink bourbon and learn more about it”
Roche and Duncan are lively and engaging teachers with a fresh, immersive approach to tasting. We are encouraged to rub new make spirit in our hands and inhale deeply. What do we smell? Corn notes on the palms.We’re told to clap and smell again. Can we pick out some rye spice now, asks Duncan. Roche says he’ll be wielding the charred stave of a Bourbon oak cask for visitor tastings to explain the effect it has on the flavour of the liquid. Tonight, he encourages us to nose with each nostril individually. At one point, to illustrate the power of aromas, a bowl of buttered popcorn-flavoured Jelly Beans is produced which we are told to eat with our hands over our nose, then try it again with our hands removed. It’s all good fun. I think anyone, from experts to beginners, would find this a lovely, informal environment for learning more about classic Kentucky Bourbon. Judging by the reviews I’ve seen, visitors are lapping it up.
It’s a wrap: Buffalo Trace Bourbon is the best-selling bottle in the range
The premium bottles Duncan uncorks for us are exceptional. My favourite was the E.H. Taylor, Jr. Small Batch, a consummate sipping bourbon, named for the founding father of it all. It had a caramel corn sweetness, mingled with butterscotch and liquorice. The aftertaste was a soft mouth-feel that turned into subtle spices of pepper and tobacco.
At the end of the evening we get to try a nip of the fabled and very rare Pappy Van Winkle 23 Year Old, Duncan having sneaked over a sample container of this prized liquid in his hand luggage. It’s a rare treat. Conceived by the late 19th century travelling salesman turned master distiller of that wondrous name, a limited number of these gems are released from the reserve every year and sell out quickly, at around £5,000 to £6,000 a pop. It’s heart-stoppingly good, a charred white oak aged bourbon with a deep smooth sweet taste, with hints of toffee and honey, and a long and spicy finish. A whiskey of deep refinement.
Buffalo Trace have rolled into town to win the hearts, minds and palates of the British drinker. It would take an awfully mean spirit to resist their Bourbon charm offensive.
Buffalo Trace’s manager Kiel Roche conducting a tasting at the new London HQ
Choose your Buffalo Trace tasting experience
‘Taste of the Trace’, is a guided tasting of the brand’s core products; Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Sazerac Rye and Bourbon Cream, with the option to add a Buffalo and Ginger Ale cocktail. £19.99
‘Tradition & Change: Crafting the Most Awarded American Whiskey’, is described as a more intimate experience that features the brand’s premium expressions such as White Dog Mash #1, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Eagle Rare 10-Year-Old, EH Taylor Small Batch, and a small pour of a Buffalo Trace Old Fashioned. Up to £34.99
Pre-book tastings and find out more at BuffaloTraceDistillery.co.uk
