We would drive 500 miles for this…(swimsuit optional)
Achmelvich Bay, the west coast of Scotland’s answer to Antigua?
Dolphins, fine dining and natural wonders abound on Scotland’s most northerly trail. You might even bag a fantasy beach to yourself (and a classy hotel with a roaring fire to warm-up afterwards). Alba Chiara Di Bari picks 10 places definitely worth a stop-off or a detour on the North Coast 500
On paper, it’s a hard sell: a winding single-track road that runs across 516 miles of rocky hills in the north of Scotland, patched by heather and white sand beaches (in the summer at least) sprinkled with black volcanic rocks. But then there’s the forests of birches and gorse bushes taking turns with miles of desolated moorland, astonishing cliffs above turquoise fjords that give way to picturesque harbours and coastal villages. It’s no longer the best-kept secret in Scotland, but the North Coast 500, the scenic route crossing Inverness-shire, Sutherland, Caithness and Ross and Cromarty, still takes some beating for a spring road trip. Here’s 10 ways to enjoy it to the max…
Enjoy a seriously classy soak at the Torridon
Soak up the luxury at The Torridon hotel
On the west coast, immersed in the breathtaking landscape of the Torridon Hills, the Torridon Hotel sits on a private estate on the banks of Upper Loch Torridon. With opulent rooms, a kitchen garden shaping the tempting dinner menu and a whisky bar with floor-to-ceiling bottles of Scotch, it will be difficult to drag yourself away. Other great and indulgent options along the NC500 include Rocpool Reserve boutique hotel, the Royal Marine Hotel in Brora, and Links House in Thurso, with its elegant Mara restaurant.
Flanked by the awesome Torridon hills, the hotel has a stunning location
Do the NC500 and you’ll make plenty friends along the way
2. Share a moment with the seals and dolphins at Cape Wrath
Basking sharks, puffins, dolphins, guillemots, and whales: if you are looking to spot some serious marine wildlife, then Cape Wrath has to be on your itinerary. A little detour from the main route before Durness, reaching it requires a ferry and a minibus ride across 11 miles of wild moor. Once there, you can restore yourself at the Ozone Cafè, on the ground floor of a lighthouse built by Robert Louis Stevenson’s father, or bedazzle at the view over the cliffs of Clo Mor, the highest in Britain at 921 feet. Feeling adventurous? Book a sea kayaking or canoeing experience to get the best close-up views of golden sea eagles and kittiwakes.
Enter Smoo Cave to wonder at Viking history and geological forces
3. Explore Smoo Cave at Durness
Among the mind-boggling array of geologic conformations along the north coast, Smoo Cave is unique in its kind. Formed both by sea and freshwater, the grotto features a huge entrance from the sea, three chambers and a 66 foot-high waterfall. You can book a boat trip to explore the inside of the cave and delve into the bloody and fascinating history of the Vikings who used to hang out here a wee while back. After much exploration, a treat is in order. Stop by Cocoa Mountain in the nearby village of Durness for amazing champagne truffles and comforting hot chocolate.
Kylesku hotel, the perfect pitstop
4. Indulge in fine seafood dining
The NC500 is not just about the landscape and nature: its rugged character and fresh local produce have inspired numberless of great chefs. Those looking for fine dining along the north coast of Scotland are spoiled for choice, thanks to a clutch of Michelin-star restaurants, sometime nestled in luxury hotels. Thurso, on the northern coast, is home to The Captain’s Galley, which serves fresh monkfish and oysters beside the harbour. Other great stops include Loch Ness Country House in Inverness with its sea bass and langoustine dishes, while near Kylesku Bridge, the Kylesku Hotel boasts local mussels and scallops on its daily-changing menu.
The seafood platter at the Kylesku hotel
Nothing like a clear sunset over Duncansby Heads
5. See Duncansby Heads at John O’Groats
The entire northern coast is embellished by dramatic cliffs and luscious vegetation, but few places equal the beauty of the striking Duncansby heads in Caithness. The path lies just after the colourful houses of John O’Groats, the most northeastern village of Britain and start/end point of the long cycle road to Land’s End. Leave the car at the parking spot near the lighthouse and continue to the cliffs of Geo of Sclaites. The gorge is home to many seabirds, like puffins and fulmars. Lift your gaze over the edge and admire in awe the scenic stacks of weather-worn volcanic rocks standing out from the North Sea.
Challenge your resistance on strenuous Bealach Na Bà
6. Dare to drive (or cycle) across the Bealach Na Bà
Steep, arduous, unforgiving. The infamous Bealach Na Bà road has the highest gradient in Great Britain and has been attracting cyclists and drivers thirsty for a challenge since at least the 1950s. The road itself was built a century before to serve as a cattle pass towards Applecross and has not been updated since. With narrow stone bridges and tight elbow turns — one of which is aptly known as ‘the devil’s elbow’ — this route is not recommended for drivers of a nervous disposition. A two-wheeled option is not for the faint-hearted either, but on a clear day, it has the dips, twists and drama to offer up the cycle-trip of your life.
Drop in for a dram at Clynelish
7. Stop for a sip or two at a classic Highland distillery
From well-established giants to new independent enterprises, NC500 has a growing collection of superb single malt distilleries. Near Inverness, Glen Ord, one of the malt distilleries for the Singleton brand, hosts newly renovated tours that include a fascinating peek into their drum maltings. On the east coast, near the village of the same name, you will find beautiful Brora — reopened in 2021 after a 30-year closure — and Clynelish. If you don’t have time for a tour in a distillery, stop by one of the well-stocked whisky bars — but if you are driving, we recommend you stick to the delicious mocktails.
Get a glimpse of the Atlantic Salmon
8. See salmon leaping at Falls of Shin
If you travel between May and November, make sure to stop by the Falls of Shin in Lairg. A short descending path takes you to the viewpoint for the main waterfall. Squint your eyes, and you might be able to see an elusive shiny sunbeam in the tumbling water: it is the Atlantic salmon, leaping upstream to its spawning ground. You can follow one of the many walking trails through Achany Glen, smell the pines in the forest and relax along the river. Travel west, and you might discover other wonders, like the highest waterfall in Britain, the 660 foot splendour of Eas A’Chual Aluinn, near Unapool.
Royal Dornoch is a stern test and a feast for the eyes
9. Play one of the world’s best links golf courses
It’s the home of golf so why wouldn’t you tee it up? White sands, rolling hills and inevitably challenging weather: the ideal combination for amateurs and professionals alike to test their skills. From 9 to 18 holes, Scotland’s north coast features some of the most scenic golf courses in the country. The Royal Dornoch Golf Club (you’ll need a handicap and to book ahead to play this one) is an astonishing links which unfurls dramatically over wind-swept hills and coastline, and it is not too far away from Brora Golf Club, sporting rich history and traditions. Move north and east, and you will find more historical links, like Reary, Durness, and Golspie.
After much exploring, enjoy some relaxation
10. Hunker down in a glamping pod
For a truly memorable stay without sacrificing too much on modern comforts, the glamping pod is a great option. Shepherds’ huts, bell tents or wooden pods, these places blend together the excitement of wild camping and the ease of self-catering lodges. NC500 Pods has two locations, Brora on the east and Achmelvich on the west coast, featuring wooden saunas, honeymoon suite and outdoor fires, while Black Isle Brewing Co. offers a unique custom-built shepherd’s hut near their organic farm overlooking the Moray Firth. On the north coast, Braeside Retreats presents pods, as well as larger cottages and a farmhouse for bigger groups.
For more infortmation on the North Coast 500 visit www.northcoast500.com
