Two wheels, five ferries, one glorious bike ride across Arran
The ferry across the shimmering waters to the Kyles of Bute
The islands off the west coast of Scotland provide some of the country’s most thrilling natural landscapes, but getting between them isn’t always easy. David Taylor saddles up to cycle across the Isles of Arran and Bute in a single day (with a little help from the ferryman)
We know that Scotland boasts the kind of spectacular scenery that makes you want to stop and drink it in. On a bike that can be tricky if not downright dangerous, but luckily on this wonderful ride there is ample opportunity to dismount and wonder at the beauty that’s all around you (and enjoy a pint or two).
The Five Ferries Ride is a stunning land-and-sea day out on the bike that sees cyclists roll on and off boats and whizz past distilleries and through eye-catching countryside.
We start in Glasgow. From here, it’s just a short hop, skip, and a drive out to Inverkip, where we stayed in the excellent Inverkip Hotel.
Ditching four wheels for two, we headed to our first leg of the Club Peloton-organised route, that encompasses five ferry crossings linking the Isles of Arran and Bute to the mainland that surrounds them. Pleasantly breaking up the trip, these ferries allow riders to take a breather and enjoy the views between each leg of the journey.
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Starting and ending in Ardrossan on the west coast of Scotland, the circular Five Ferries Cycle Ride spans approximately 76 miles (122 kilometres) and takes cyclists through stunning coastal roads, charming villages, and tranquil countryside. Throughout the journey, riders encounter ever-changing scenery, from serene lochs and rolling hills to ancient castles and pristine beaches.
‘As cyclists disembark on the mainland, they’ll be greeted by the scenic Kintyre Peninsula, with its idyllic villages and coastal roads’
The adventure begins with a ferry ride from Ardrossan to Brodick on the Isle of Arran. With its uniquely diverse landscape, from towering mountains to lush valleys, Arran is aptly known as ‘Scotland in Miniature’. Cycling through this picturesque island yields a winning mix of scenery as well as the chance to explore Arran’s famous distilleries, ancient standing stones, and the grand, baronial, Brodick Castle.
From Arran, the route continues to the second ferry crossing, connecting Lochranza to Claonaig. As cyclists disembark on the mainland, they’ll be greeted by the scenic Kintyre Peninsula, with its idyllic villages and coastal roads. This leg of the journey also affords riders magnificent views of the Sound of Jura and the Isle of Islay, both names beloved by the whisky community.
Lochranza Castle on the Isle of Arran
The third ferry takes cyclists from Tarbert, located on the Kintyre Peninsula, to Portavadie on the Cowal Peninsula. Here, riders can relish the tranquility of Loch Fyne, surrounded by rolling hills and charming coastal towns. The ride from Portavadie to Colintraive features winding country lanes and captivating glimpses of the shimmering waters of the Kyles of Bute.
At Colintraive, we encounter our fourth ferry crossing, the one taking cyclists to Rhubodach on the Isle of Bute. Bute really is a beaut, and is rightly renowned for its gardens, historic architecture, and stunning coastline. The island offers numerous attractions, including the grand Mount Stuart House, Victorian seaside resorts, and sandy beaches (if you are dead set on ruining your bike’s ball bearings).
The final ferry ride returns cyclists from Rothesay on the Isle of Bute to Wemyss Bay on the mainland. From there, it’s another gorgeous ride along the coast back to Ardrossan.
“Riders encounter ever-changing scenery, from serene lochs and rolling hills to ancient castles and pristine beaches”
But if a flukily glorious sunny day out on the bikes was not enough, nor even five ferries (one of which we missed and were forced to eat ice creams waiting for the next) then the bar at our hotel more than made up for it, stocked with one of the best and “most extensive craft beer, gin and malt whisky lists on the Clyde Coast,” they boast. Drink it all in.
Five Ferries Stage Cycling notes by Club Peloton
Stage 1 Wemyss Bay To Ardrossan (30.7km 57m ascent)
Before heading out, steal a look at this recently refurbished Victorian train station. There is parking to the Wemyss Bay side of the station.
The route to Ardrossan is pretty flat and if there is a challenge it will be the prevailing south-westerly head wind. Early in the morning it should be less of a problem. Take care on the initial road as it is narrow and double white lines are encroached by passing cars. We will pass through Skelmorlie, Largs and Fairlie. The lump is between Largs and Fairlie. The island you can see off Largs is Cumbrae and is a popular destination for families to cycle round.
As we approach Ardrossan the Ferry Terminal is visible at the harbour and is well sign posted.
Stage 2 Brodick to Lochranza (24km 195m ascent)
As you depart the ferry take care of your tyres. A feature of the ride is the crushed mussel shells the seagulls drop to open them. It is sometimes better to carry your bike to the road.
There is no time to hang about for this stage and we head north out of Brodick passing along the coast through Corrie and Sannox on the coast before heading up over the moor to Lochranza. The ‘Boglie’ is a steady climb in two parts. There is an initial climb out of Sannox and then a slight dip before the main climb. It is a pity the view isn’t better from the top. To the south you have Goat Fell, a near 3,000ft peak. Keep an eye out for golden eagles and deer.
The descent is fast, and the majority of the road has recently been resurfaced and widened but there are a couple of ‘sharper than you think’ bends near the bottom. As you enter Lochranza you will be greeted by the distillery at the entrance to the village. The ferry is still a good 1,500m from here over a small humped back bridge.
Push on to the ferry where there is a great little coffee stop across the road. I would also advise a comfort break here as the facilities on the ferries are basic.
Stage 3 Claonaig To Tarbert (17.2km 150m ascent)
We are now on the Mull of Kintyre. As we ride this stage you will actually get to the west coast of the mainland and pass the ferry to Islay in West Loch Tarbert. We are not getting this ferry.
On departing the ferry there is a short climb before reaching the A85. This is the main route down to Campbeltown so can be busy. We are on this road for 7km.
Tarbert itself is a very pretty fishing village and natural harbour. Time for a group photo, and then lunch. Again, the ferry is almost out the other side of the village.
Stage 4 Portavadie to Colintraive (30.7km 414m ascent)
Definitely the Queen Stage of the ride. If you are not climbing you are descending on the route that takes in Kames, Tighnabruaich and Colintraive. There are a couple of tasters as you come out of Portavadie before dropping back to sea level at Kames. As you make the turn at Tighnabruaich make sure you have the right gear as there is a bit of a wall to get over first. Thereafter it is a climb that keeps on giving (or taking) depending on your point of view, with several false summits. Just over the final summit is a view point down the Kyles of Bute. You can see the ferry we are heading for but there is still another climb before reaching Colintraive. This is a superb photo stop which is followed by a pretty rapid descent.
The last section is on a faster wider road but not as heavily trafficked as the A85 at Tarbert. There is another steady climb which really saps the legs this late in the day before a final drop to Colintraive.
There is a great pub at the ferry in Colintraive as your reward, and then the shortest ferry journey of the lot.
Stage 5 Rhubadoch to Rothesay (13.4km 35m ascent)
The “Hame” Stage is a flat except for one lump ride along the coast of Bute to Rothesay. There is a very nice loop to Ettrick Bay which gives a cracking view across the water to Arran.
Once in Rothesay you will be greeted by the Zavaronis who own fish and chip shops and ice cream parlours in the town. We recommend either the Black Bull or the Golfers for a pint. Another treat are the Victorian public conveniences on the pier.
If you still have the legs for it, there is the famous Serpentine climb up out of town, Rothesay answer to Alpe d’Heuz.
The Ferries
The two main ferries from Ardrossan to Brodick and Rothesay to Wemyss Bay are large ships. The others are roll-on roll-off ferries that look a bit like landing craft. On the smaller craft there are no café facilities and limited toilet facilities. The others have shops and bars, and you can sample the famous Cal-Mac breakfast.
Scotrail run Trains from Glasgow Central to coincide with the ferries but these can be busy with other cyclists. The journey from Glasgow is about an hour. Also do not under estimate the time it takes to get from Glasgow to Wemyss Bay or Ardrossan by car. Allow an hour and a half minimum.
For more information on ferries visit www.calmac.co.uk
The author David Taylor (right) co-owns Velocity Magazine with Toby Fox (left). The magazine focuses on people, property and bikes, mixing architecture and design with the love of how cycles are changing cities. They took this journey in June 2021.
